Koyasan
Next we went to Koyasan, a famous mountain. Getting there was an experience--we took a fairly slow train out from the city and the train stations got smaller and smaller, till they were just covered platforms as we got into the mountains. It was a really beautiful ride.

Then we took a "funicular railway" up to the top of Koyasan. I don't have photos of that, but imagine a rail car that is built at a 45-degree angle, with a stair-stepped interior.



This is the rock (and snow) garden and the temple of the monastery where we stayed. The only lodgings on Koyasan are in temples; there are hundreds and hundreds of Buddhist and Shinto sites on the mountain. Many are devoted to the Shingon sect of Buddhism, whose founder is believed to be resting in his tomb nearby. Shingon is an esoteric sect with connections to Tibetan Buddhism.

Shingon student-monks did the ryokan-style work of getting out our futon, serving food, etc. We went to the morning services, which were very interesting. The head monk's mother came and talked to us while we had dinner. Her English is terrific and she didn't look anywhere near 82. As promised, this was a highlight of visiting Koyasan. We also talked to her son after the services, but he had to go because he's also the principal of the junior high.



Because of his presence, followers (from the rich and famous on down) have had their ashes or personal relics sent here for burial for centuries. There are 1/4 to 1/2 million of these here in the world's largest cemetery. In the cold and light snow, it was really beautiful and peaceful. The trees are ancient ... It's supposed be gorgeous and mysterious at night when the lanterns are lit, but it was too cold for us to go back.




The actual temple and tomb site are no-photos-allowed. This is nearby--a mountain of Jizo buddhas, which aid those in danger. Specifically, though, these little figures are dedicated to children who have died, including miscarriages and abortions. Devotees/relatives/mothers, etc., often dress them in children's aprons and such in the winter. (NB: I'm not that familiar with Japanese Buddhism, so please forgive/correct any mistakes.)




Okay, this is in the shiny new section of the cemetery. It appears to be sponsored by UCC, the giant Japanese coffee company. There's a Kannon in the inner portion. Is this the grave of the founder, or just a devotional act by the company, or something else? I have no idea. There were other corporate sites nearby, and one I think was for the Japanese space program. Hmm.



A persimmon tree outside of the temple where we stayed. The area leading up to Koyasan seems to be famous for its persimmons, although I suspect that by January they're mostly birdfeed. Japanese persimmons are firm, crisp, and sweet. The most common brand in US supermarkets is Fuyu. Yum.